True vintage 1930s dressmaker gown made in France of luscious black silk crepe. The construction details and finishing on this dress are exquisite, the craftsmanship superb. Gently full upper sleeves are slim and ruched below the elbow, closing with nine tiny, covered buttons and crocheted loops. Five more covered buttons and loops at the back of the neck, above the open back slit. Diamond-shaped panel at the lower back closes with tiny snaps and a hook&eye.
Rollover neck. Bodice center panel extends into extra-long, double-layer, wide ties to wrap at the waist and hips, fastening in front or back to suit. Dress is open at the center front waist beneath the center panel (see photo). Seamed full-length skirt with subtle inverted pleats below the knees.
Every raw seam is hand overcast. Every piece of the dress is arranged and constructed to enhance the wearer. Feels absolutely heavenly. The time, effort, and skill that went into creating this magnificent dress are remarkable.
Labels: Marie Ducos Bordeaux 32, Allées de Tourny
with the help of VFG colleague and researcher extraordinaire Lynne, we learned that Marie Ducos made at least two visits to the U.S. from France -- in 1911 and again in 1924 -- to visit a friend in Pennsylvania. The passenger manifest from 1911 notes her occupation as "dressmaker" and her age as 42 years, indicating she was born c. 1869. We've included a current image of her atelier's address at 32, Allées de Tourny, in Bordeaux, France.
Fiber/Care: unmarked, almost certainly silk crepe, dry-clean. due to the weight of the dress, rather than hanging it, we recommend storing it gently rolled (not folded) in acid-free tissue or a clean sheet (no fabric softener) to prevent stress to the fabric
Condition: fairly remarkable. we see no real evidence of wear. we did have to stitch closed several short lengths (<1cm) of seam where the original thread had given out. we also reattached one end of the crocheted button loop second from the top at the back neck.
*as there's no evidence of wear, we've opted not to have this dress dry-cleaned. the less exposure to caustic chemicals, the better. it is ready to wear. once it has been worn, clean it before storing it*
- there is some give to the fabric, especially where the pieces are cut and sewn on the bias. this dress fits me with a bit of room to spare, and I measure ~ b:36" w:26.5" h:36 -
sleeves: 26"/66cm (meant to drape at upper arms)
bodice: 16.5"/42cm (meant to blouse somewhat)
bust: approx. 38"/96.5cm (ruched front
and open back add give)
waist: max. 28"/71cm (cinch tighter with ties)
hips (9" below waist): 36"/91.5cm
length: 62"/157.5cm (will shorten somewhat
filled with a body)
(BDV SKU: 00515-001)
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